Gen Z, born between 1997 and 2012, has shown a strong commitment to ESG [environmental, social and governance] principles, driving discussions on ethical consumption and sustainability. The generation has been central to the rise of second-hand fashion, has participated in climate protests and is not afraid to boycott a brand they deem unethical. GlobalData surveys have shown that 63% of Gen Z would support brands that share their values, and 72% consider a brand’s sustainability important in their purchasing decisions.
However, Gen Z’s shopping habits often contradict their values. They frequently shop from fast-fashion brands despite the well-publicised environmental and ethical concerns.
The rise of Shein
Chinese fashion brand Shein has rapidly expanded its reach to customers in 150 countries worldwide. Popular among Gen Z, its sales have skyrocketed from $3.15 billion in 2019 to a staggering $32.5 billion in 2023. Yet Shein’s practices harshly contradict the values of its young consumer base. The brand has been embroiled in a series of environmental and social controversies, but its appeal to Gen Z remains unwavering.
Shein’s environmental footprint is a cause for concern, as a significant portion of its clothing is derived from plastic or polyester - materials that originate from fossil fuels. This has resulted in an annual carbon dioxide output of 6.3 million tons. Shein has also faced criticism for its poor working conditions, with reports of employees enduring 70-hour work-weeks. There have been allegations regarding the exploitation of Uyghurs, a mainly Muslim ethnic minority in China, as forced labour in Shein’s cotton supply chain in Xinjiang.
The brand has faced accusations of intellectual property theft from smaller artists, which perhaps aids its rapid turnover of new clothing items, with up to 10,000 new products released every day.
Given this, it seems surprising that Shein would continue to attract Gen Z consumers. And yet it does - with 44% of the cohort making monthly purchases from the brand, according to eMarketer.
The allure of Shein lies in its affordability, with the average garment priced at just £7.90 ($10.07). This low cost encourages bulk buying, a trend popularised on TikTok through “haul” videos showcasing Shein purchases. The videos, often accompanied by discount codes shared by creators, have bolstered Shein’s popularity, making its already inexpensive items even more accessible. These low-quality, low-cost garments promote overconsumption and generate large amounts of waste.
Why does Gen Z continue to support fast fashion?
The dichotomy of Gen Z’s views and actions may suggest hypocrisy to many, so it’s important to understand why its members continue these brands. Primarily, this can be attributed to their limited purchasing power, which is compounded by increasing living costs. Additionally, this generation’s desire for fashionable yet affordable clothing, fuelled by social media and online hauls, has made repeating an outfit a social faux pas.
In response to criticism for collaborating with Shein, TikTok influencer Drew Afualo, who has more than eight million followers, defended the partnership by stating: “Not everyone can afford to shop sustainably […] sustainable fashion is a privilege.”
But does this justify Gen Z’s tendency to bulk-buy from sites like Shein, just because it is less expensive? Are the clothes Gen Z shoppers buy from Shein really a necessity? In the future, as Gen Z consumers become key players in the global workforce and economy, it will be interesting to see if they put their money where their mouth is, or continue to support low-cost but ethically questionable brands.
